As you probably already know I started taking cycling more seriously in 2000 and started racing in 2005 but I was purely on the road. Off road riding was a light hobby and I didn't even get my first bike shop quality mountain bike until 2009, even then it was an entry level model. Road tubeless wasn't invented until 2006 and it remains a troublesome system. As a result I was ignorant to tubeless technology until only a couple of years ago.
Like any bike rider I have fought flat tires my entire life and living in Arizona means that running a regular tube and tire isn't really an option. Usually tubes are good for one ride in a normal mountain bike tire. To combat this I ran Bontrager Hardcase tires on all our mountain bikes. They were lined with Kevlar from bead to bead and under the tread featured three layers of puncture protection. They were heavy, narrow, and more road worthy than trail worthy but you could run over a cactus (I tried) and ride away like nothing happened. I still maintain that these are these are the toughest tires on the planet and wouldn't think twice about putting them on a commuting bike but they were holding my real mountain biking back. I raced on them in 2011 and even though they did better than they should have I began to wish I had a wider ranger of tire choice.
When I got my Superfly I had to set it up tubeless. Current tubeless systems even if they are UST (which doesn't need it) use a form of liquid latex sealant. This isn't that green goo you may have tried before (which doesn't really work), tubeless sealant acts fast and in most cases you won't even realize you had a puncture. The problem is that tubeless wheels are expensive. Retail costs on a mediocre set start at $500 and go way up from there. The other popular alternative is known as ghetto tubeless. By using Stan's rim tape and sealant virtually any set of wheels and tires can be converted to tubeless. To be safe I bought a pair of tubeless ready tires, which feature the safety of a UST bead without the added weight of a fully sealed tire casing.
The set up worked but it took four hours, an air compressor, soapy water and a lot of frustration to set it up. Because the wheels were never meant for tubeless the tires had a hard time seating to the bead and if the tires ever lost air the bead was immediately lost as well and I'd have to start over again. Once I got it fully set up it worked pretty good and the sealant worked amazing. I once had a six inch screw go through the tread of my rear tire. It fully stabbed through the tire and was clanking on my frame when I discovered it. I pulled the screw out, bounced the tire around and it sealed right up. Most of the time I never even noticed thorns or other punctures. I knew a real tubeless set up was better but up until a few months ago I didn't realize just how much better.
Wheels were still expensive but I saved up and began shopping around. It was highly recommended that I get wheels with DT Swiss or other high quality hubs and spokes that way just like my road wheels it would be a one time purchase. The cost of a Mavic set or Bontrager Rhythm Elites or Race X Lites was still daunting in new form so I turned to ebay. It took some digging but I finally was able to win a reasonably priced set of 2010 Bontrager Rhythm Elites with DT Swiss hubs. The Bontragers have the special tubeless bead hook but require a rim strip. No messy tape though; Bontrager's plastic rim strip snaps into the rim and seals it perfectly. I got some rims strips, a couple valves and two new brake rotors from the bike shop (only because my brake rotors used the newer style) and I went home to set them up.